I did not intend for my holiday in Istanbul to involve close observation of a battle between protesters and riot police. It just worked out that way.
What we saw
Some friends and I happened to visit Istanbul on the first anniversary of the
2013 Taksim Square protests. I only realised this when the manager of my holiday apartment mentioned that we should be careful on Saturday 31 May. By then it was much too late to change our plans, and there weren't any official warnings, so we didn't give it much more thought.
Our apartment was located on the second floor of a nineteenth-century building in the district of
Beyoğlu, formerly known as
Galata. It is a fashionable neighbourhood of Istanbul, popular with tourists and the more bohemian locals; it's notable for a large number of musical instrument shops. We were about a mile from Taksim Square, and 500 meters from the British Consulate.
Saturday began calmly enough. The streets were full of people as usual, including plenty of locals. Some sort of street repairs were going on, but nothing substantial. We went out for a day of sightseeing and had an enjoyable time visiting the
Sulemaniye Mosque and
Grand Bazaar.
On the way back, we saw some riot police in side streets, but they were relaxed, standing around with their helmets off, talking and smoking. So we continued up to our apartment to relax before going out for dinner.
About fifteen minutes later, we noticed crowds marching in the street below us and shouting slogans.
To start with, it looked like the kind of boisterous but peaceful protest familiar from Britain. Before long, most of the crowds cleared the street; probably the police had ordered them to disperse. A few of them remained behind, and were confronted by a line of riot cops.